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THE 

HANDICRAFT BOOK 



ANNE L.JESSUP 

AND 

ANNIE E.LOGU 



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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



THE 
HANDICRAFT BOOK 



THE 
HANDICRAFT BOOK 

COMPRISING METHODS OF TEACHING 
CORD AND RAFFIA CONSTRUCTIVE 
WORK, WEAVING, BASKETRY AND 
CHAIR CANING IN GRADED SCHOOLS 



BY 

ANNE L. JESSUP 

u 

DIRECTOR OF HAND WORK IN THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS, NEW YORK CITY 
DIRECTOR OF DOMESTIC ART, NEW YORK UNIVERSITY 



AND 



ANNIE E. LOGUE 

TEACHER OF DOMESTIC ART, WASHINGTON IRVING HIGH SCHOOL 




NEW YORK 

A. S. BARNES COMPANY 
1912 






w 



COPYKIGHT 1912, 

By A. S. Barnes Company. 



CCLA3099^8 



PREFACE 

Not to know at larga, of things remote 
From use, obscure and subtle; but to know 
That which before us lies in daily life, 
Is the prime wisdom. 

— Ruskin 

This book is the outcome of many years experience 
in teaching and supervising in public schools and in 
normal classes. 

Fully appreciating the benefit to the child of freedom 
in the development of his creative ability, it is not my 
wish to recommend a stilted, formal course of activities. 
We must, however, be governed by conditions in order 
to secure success in the introduction of manual training 
subjects in graded schools. 

The teaching of hand work to large classes is often 
a difficult problem. The solution lies in the proper 
method of conducting the lessons. From necessity, the 
instruction is often on some one model for the class, 
although individual taste should be exercised in the 
choice of color and in the finishing and decoration of the 
article. 

The interest of the child in the exercise of his natural 
activity is self-evident. If the directions for the lessons 
are given with sufficient clearness to reach his compre- 
hension, he develops self-reliance, judgment and inde- 
pendence. The hand learns to obey the brain. The 



6 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

pupil becomes an intelligent worker instead of an 
imitator. 

By following the proper method of instruction the 
necessity for individual help is minimized. 

Supervision of the work of each pupil is necessary to 
secure satisfactory results, but not individual assistance 
in the case of normal children. 

The wish to do something is innate in every child and 
there is an instinctive feeling of pleasure involved in the 
process. The thing to be made must be well within the 
limits of the child's ability or he becomes discouraged 
and loses interest. We must be satisfied to achieve suc- 
cess at the first in the making of very simple articles. 
Hand work is an important factor in character building. 
The result indicates the kind of effort used, either sin- 
cere or half-hearted. Each step shows for itself and the 
results are visible to pupil and to teacher alike. 

The present day social and economic conditions de- 
mand vocational training. This training of hand and 
eye should commence in the first grade and continue 
through the period of mental and physical development. 

A. L. J. 



INTRODUCTION 

This sequence of hand work has been planned for a 
three years' course. It connects the kindergarten activ- 
ities with the more advanced construction work of the 
primary grades, forming a foundation for sewing and 
garment making for the girls. It is also an excellent 
training for the more difficult forms of hand work for 
boys. 

As the motive in play is pleasure, so the motive in 
work is practical use. The making of a finished article 
useful either at school or home, means much more to the 
child than an exercise without a direct aim. 

Cord, Raffia and Reed with the opportunity given in 
the employment of these materials for large muscular 
movement are particularly adapted for children's use. 
The work gives scope for the child's natural dexterity 
and for the development of his constructive ability. In 
making an article he begins at once to reason and to 
judge. 

The use of the soft pretty colors which may be 
obtained in these materials develops an appreciation of 
the beauty of tint and shade; while the many opportu- 
nities for exercising originality in design train the 
powers of observation. The pupil also learns independ- 
ence of execution. 



SUPPLIES FOR THE WORK IN CONSTRUC- 
TION AND THE METHOD OF PREPAR- 
ING THEM FOR USE IN CLASSES 

Cable Cord. Sold by the pound. A loosely twisted, 
coarse cotton cord, white and colored. It is necessary 
to have the latter dyed in quantities. Select soft har- 
monious colors. It is more convenient to cut the large 
heavy skeins once than to roll it in balls. A good means 
of procuring the desired lengths is to wind the cord 
around two uprights, the distance apart being the 
desired length of the cord. Cut the skein thus formed 
twice. 

Seine Cord. Sold by the pound. A coarse twisted 
cord. It may be bought in white and red. Cut the 
skein once, using heavy shears. 

Macreme Cord. A finer cord, usually sold by the 
ball. It can be obtained in many attractive colors. 

Flat and Round Cotton Corset Laces. Sold by the 
gross. They must be dyed to order to obtain the desired 
shades. 

Raffia. Sold by the pound. A straw-like tough 
fibre, the product of the Madagascar Palm. It can be 
obtained in the natural color, bleached or dyed in various 
shades. The natural color is sold in a large braided 

8 



SUPPLIES FOR THE WORK 9 

twist, weighing from one to four pounds. In using this 
material, loosen the braid, and hang it from the centre 
on a nail. Pull the strands from the top of the braid. 
The dyed raffia comes in a loose mass. It should be 
kept in a box or bag, as it is most important that the 
schoolroom should not be made untidy by the careless 
handling of these materials. 

Round Reed or Rattan. Sold by the pound. It 
may be bought in various sizes, very fine, 1 fine, 3 me- 
dium, and 5 and 6 coarse. When using the fine numbers 
for weavers, the whole length may be required. These 
lengths should be coiled around and an end run through 
the coil so as to keep it from untwisting while soaking. 
The coarse reeds for the spokes of baskets should be 
cut in desired lengths with pliers or shears. Tie together 
in bundles with a piece of raffia for soaking. A large 
pail or tub of water will serve the purpose in the class- 
room. The reed must be soaked for twenty minutes, or 
it will break when bent. 

Flat Reed, Sold by the pound. The width varies 
from y 8 to % inch. This may also be made pliable by 
soaking although it is not necessary in making the ma- 
jority of the models. 

Cane. Sold by the bundle. It may be bought in 
various sizes; fine, medium, and coarse. Use the latter 
for binding. 

Binder's Board. A heavy cardboard used to make 
looms for weaving and forms for chair caning. A thin- 



10 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

ner cardboard, or the backs of school pads when avail- 
able, may be used for frames and circles. These may 
be cut to order at a small cost, or they can be made by 
the children. 

Cotton Warp Thread. Sold by the ounce spools. 
It can be procured in brown, gray or black, and makes 
an excellent foundation thread for weaving. 

Rug Yarn. Sold by the pound, usually in hanks, 
which may be cut once for convenience. It is also sold 
by the spool. Woolen rug yarn is softer and better than 
that made of jute. Care must be taken to procure at- 
tractive colors. Tan, brown, and dull green are good 
colors for the body of a rug. Harmonious colors must 
be chosen for the design. 

Dexter s Cotton. No. 8 used for weaving wash- 
cloths. 

Brass Rings. Sold by the gross, l/o in. to 1 in. in 
diameter. 

Brass Cup Hooks (Small). Sold by the gross to 
be screwed to the back of the desk to hold the cords and 
the chains while the children are working. These, while 
helpful, are not absolutely necessary. 

Tapestry Needles. Sold by the paper. No. 18, 
blunt. 



FIRST YEAR 



FIRST YEAR 

KNOTTING AND LOOPING 

Single, Double and Triple Knots 
Materials: 

1 yd. of colored cable cord for each pupil. 

DIRECTIONS TO CLASS 

Place ends of cords together and find center. Hold 
the cord at the center between thumb and first finger 
of left hand; wind one end around the hand, crossing 
the cords under the thumb and throwing the upper cord 
back over the hand. This forms a ring. With the right 
hand pull this upper cord through the ring. Pull both 
ends to make the knot tight. (Fig. 1.) 

The entire length of cord may now be knotted and 
the knots counted when finished. The reason for begin- 
ning at the center is because the children will have a 
shorter length of cord to pass through the ring. 

With a new piece of cord teach spacing. Suggest the 
first space by showing a given length to the class (about 
l!/2 in.) . All spaces should be as nearly as possible like 
the first. 

The children are now able to make a fancy chain 
using some arrangement of single knots for design as in 
Fig. 2. 

12 



FIRST YEAR 15 

In making a double knot follow the directions for 
making a single knot, passing the cord through the 
ring a second time as shown in Fig. 3. 

To make a triple knot, pass the cord through the ring 
three times ( Fig. 4 ) . 

The best spacing is now secured by holding the last 
knot between the fingers while making the next knot, 
then pulling the ends of both cords quickly. Continu- 
ing this method a uniform spacing of about two inches 
is obtained. A properly made double knot will show 
two, and a triple knot three even coils. 

Fig. 5 illustrates a simple neck chain of triple knots. 



Slip Knot 
Materials: 

1 yd. of cable cord for each pupil. 

The slip knot may be developed from the single 
knot. Wind the cord around two fingers and pull it 
partly through the ring, forming a loop. (Fig. 6.) 

This slip knot is useful as a means of fastening 
articles to the chains. Made at the end of a cord it is 
used in tying a parcel. A very simple doll's curtain may 
be constructed with six or eight cords 14 in. long. Make 
a slip knot 2 in. down from the end of cord and space 
four knots on remaining length. When these chains 
are made, slip a splint of the same color through the 



16 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

loops at the top and ravel the short ends. The curtain 
should be even at the bottom and may be mounted on 
cardboard if desired. Make two slits in each of the 
upper corners of a card six by nine inches and insert 
the ends of the splint. This method of mounting is 
shown in Fig. 7. 

Knotting Two Cords 
Materials: 

1 yd. of cable cord for each pupil. 

Double this length and make a single knot about 2 in. 
from the doubled end using both cords. On one of 
these cords make a single knot 1 in. below double knot. 
Repeat this on the other cord. Knot both cords to- 
gether the same distance down. Continue this arrange- 
ment, knotting the length of the cord and ravelling the 
ends for a tassel. This exercise when finished may be 
used for a curtain cord. (Fig. 8.) 




7^'G-. 7 



FIRST YEAR 19 

Single Knot Mesh 

Materials: 

7 pieces of cord, 1 yd. each. 
Cardboard 6x9 in. \ 

1 splint for each pupil. 

Insert the splint in cardboard for rod or use a piece 
of cardboard shaped at the ends to keep the cords from 
slipping off. 

Find center of cord, slip doubled end under the 
splint, pass the ends through this loop and pull down 
tight. Loop the other cords on in the same manner an 
even distance apart. There are now 14 cords. The 
former method of making the single knot will not give 
good results in this exercise. The knot should now be 
made by holding two cords firmly between thumb and 
first finger of the left hand the desired distance from the 
top. With the right hand pass the two ends above 
the thumb, forming a ring. Pull the ends through the 
ring and tighten the knot at the point held between the 
thumb and the first finger. 

The first row of knots is made by tying the second 
and third cords together, then the fourth and fifth are 
knotted. Continue this tying once across. 

For the second row begin with the first and second 
cords, then tie the third and fourth and continue to the 
end of the row. Finish each cord with five or six single 
knots and ravel the end. 



20 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

This exercise makes a portiere for a doll's house. A 
fancy chain or a single piece of cord may be used to 
fasten the portiere back. (Fig. 9.) 

Chain Stitch 
Material H 

1 yd. of cable cord for each pupil. 

Tie a single knot at one end and directly below make 
a slip knot. Fasten the cord in the desk or to a hook 
by the knot. Hold the long cord in the left hand and 
the loop in the right hand. Through the loop (or slip 
knot) pull the long cord, making a new loop, and draw- 
ing the first one tight; pull the long cord with the left 
hand, which will shorten the new loop. Repeat this 
process. 

This exercise will produce a perfectly even chain 
stitch. The movement downward is made first with the 
right hand to make the new loop and draw the former 
one in place, and then with the left hand to keep the new 
loop from becoming too large. To finish, pull the end 
through the last loop. An application of this exercise 
is shown in Fig. 10. It may also be used for horse-reins 
which will require about eight yards of cord. 




'mi i§^ 



FIRST YEAR 23 

Loop Stitch 
Materials: 

1 yd. of cable cord. 
1 splint for each pupil. 

Loop stitch is here illustrated made over a pencil, 
but it may also be taught using a splint or ruler. 
(Fig. 11.) 

Hold the pencil horizontally in the left hand, with 
one end of the cord under the thumb, with the right 
hand throw the other end of the cord over the pencil, 
making what the children call " a swing." With the 
right hand pull the long cord through the swing. Re- 
peat for the second loop which holds the first in place 
and continue to the end of the cord. This particular 
exercise is called single loop stitch, and is the ground 
work of many of the models in the second year's work. 
It is important, therefore, that the loops should be made 
close and even before taking up the next exercise. 

One application of this stitch is the napkin ring 
illustrated in Fig. 12. Take 1 yd. of cord and about 
3 in. from one end make a ring around the left hand 
holding it in place with left thumb ; cover this ring with 
loop stitches made with the long cord and tie the ends 
with knot. 



24 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Corkscrew Bar 
Materials: 

1% yds. of cable cord for each pupil. 

Divide cord in thirds. Make a slip knot at one third 
the length, fasten the loop in the desk or to a hook on 
the desk. Place the short cord at the left and the long 
cord at the right. Hold the short cord as a foundation 
in the left hand and with the right make five loop 
stitches, drawing them up at the top of cord. Pass the 
long cord over and under the foundation cord and con- 
tinue looping as before. This method twists the loop 
stitches and gives the corkscrew effect. (Fig. 13.) Care 
should be taken that the first of every group of stitches 
be pulled close to the last stitch. There must be no space 
between the groups of five. When the bar is 4 inches 
long ravel the remaining length and the model will re- 
semble a soft whip. Heavier ones may be made by 
using two or three cords as a foundation. 

Double Loop Stitch 

Materials: 

3 lengths of cable for each pupil. 1 yd. red, 1 yd. 
white, third cord either red or white, 15 in. 
long. 

Tie the 3 cords together, place the short length in 
the center and fasten the knot to the desk. With the 
left hand hold short cord firmly, make a loop stitch with 




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FIRST YEAR 27 

cord on right side, pull loop toward the top. Hold the 
short cord with the right hand, make a loop stitch on the 
left side with left cord. Continue in this manner, keep- 
ing the work flat. (Fig. 14.) 

The short or foundation cord should be changed 
from one hand to the other for each stitch. If desired, 
cords of the same color may be used on right and left 
sides. The use of two colors gives a pretty effect and 
aids in directing the work. This exercise when finished 
may be used as a key-guard or watch-fob. 



See- Saw Knot 
Materials: 

2 lengths of cable cord, 1 yellow and the other 
brown, 1 yd. each. 

Tie cords together near the ends with single knot 
and fasten to desk. Hold the left cord in a vertical 
position, pulling it tight. With the right hand make 
a loop stitch with the other cord, draw up loop toward 
the top still holding foundation cord with left hand. 
Change positions of hands, now holding the right cord 
firmly as a foundation and making a loop stitch with 
the left cord. (Fig. 15.) This movement of the hands 
up and down gives the name " see-saw " to the exercise. 
Continue looping each cord around the other alternately, 
producing a strong flat braid which may be used for a 
fancy chain. 



28 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Spiral Chain 

Material: 

2 lengths of cable cord, 1 white and the other 
green, 1 yd. each for each pupil. 

Place the green cord horizontally on desk, and the 
white cord on top vertically, crossing in the middle. 
Take the ends of the green cord in each hand. Tie these 
ends by passing right end over and under the left to the 
other hand. ( Note that the right end is now in the left 
hand and the left end in right hand.) Slip knot down 
towards center enclosing the white cord. Repeat this 
exercise with the vertical white cord. Care must be 
taken to tie the knot flat and close, and directly across 
the preceding one. (Fig. 16.) Tie the first three knots 
on the desk in order to place them properly, after which 
the cords may be held in the hands. This exercise may 
be applied in making a loop for a curtain or in making 
a whip, by doubling the vertical cord and tying the first 
knot with the horizontal cord a short distance from the 
doubled end. 



Twine Bag 
Materials: 

12 pieces of seine cord % of a yd. in length. 
2 pieces 14 in. long. 
Cardboard 4% by 6 in. 

Hold the card with the long edges vertical, tie the 




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7 



FIRST YEAR 31 

short cords round the card 1 inch from the top, the knots 
being on opposite sides. Notches may be made on each 
edge of the card to hold the cords in place; these cords 
are the draw strings of the bag. 

Pass one end of a long cord under these draw 
strings, double it and one-half inch down from the top 
make a single knot as described in the single knot mesh. 
Six cords should be knotted on each side of the card. 
(Fig. 17.) For the second row, knot together the right 
and left of each double cord, not forgetting the end 
cords which must be knotted on the edge of the card. 
The third row of knots should be like the first row and 
directly under it. The spacing being even and the 
knots not more than an inch apart. After knotting 
four or five rows remove the cardboard. Finish by 
winding a piece of cord around all the ends directly 
under the last row of knots, fasten with a tight knot 
and ravel the ends to form a tassel, place a ball of twine 
in this bag and draw the end through the lower part. 



Shopping Bag 
Materials: 

16 pieces of red macreme cord, 1 yd. each. 

Cardboard 6x9 in. 

2 pieces of macreme cord, 1/2 yd. each. 

Tie the short strings around the top of the card- 
board as in the twine bag. Double each length and loop 



32 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

over the short strings at the top. Make six rows of 
knots around the card forming the single knot mesh. 
Finish the bottom by taking the double cord on both 
sides below the cardboard and tying them together in a 
single knot close to the last row. Eight knots finish the 
bottom of the bag. Ravel cord for tassels and trim the 
ends evenly. (Fig. 18.) 



Square Picture Frame 
Materials: 

Cardboard 1x5 in.; 4 pieces. 
Several strands of green raffia. 

Smooth out each strand of raffia to resemble a nar- 
row ribbon. Beginning with the thick end of raffia wrap 
each piece of cardboard, very smoothly lapping the 
edges a little, and leaving one inch at each end uncov- 
ered. Conceal the ends underneath the wrapping, using 
for the purpose wooden toothpicks. Avoid twisting the 
raffia. Join the frame by pasting the four corners 
together. A piece of raffia can be tied to the upper 
sides for a hanger. (Fig. 19.) 



FIRST YEAR 35 

Napkin Ring 
Materials: 

About a dozen strands of raffia, red and tan. 
Cardboard 8x1^/2 in. 

Make a ring of the cardboard, lapping one inch. 
Cut a small slit through both edges near the ends, fasten 
the ring by tying a thin strand of raffia round the card- 
board through the slits. To cover the ring take two 
pieces of raffia red and tan ; tie the thin ends with a flat 
knot. Hold the raffia on the outside of ring so that the 
red is on the right and the tan is on the left, the knot 
being at the edge. Make a loop stitch with red raffia on 
the right, and with tan on the left. Use right and left 
hands alternately; the result will show red loops on one 
edge and tan on the other. A new piece of raffia is 
joined by holding the old and new ends together and 
looping over both. Avoid joining the red and the tan 
at the same time. To finish the ring tie the two ends 
together with a flat knot on the inside and press ends 
under the work. An excellent way to fasten raffia is to 
thread a tapestry needle with the remaining end and 
sew in and out a few times. (Fig. 20.) 



36 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Round Picture Frame 

Materials: 

A cardboard form, either circular or oval. 
Several strands of raffia, brown and yellow. 

Cover this cardboard form with double loop stitches 
as in making the napkin ring. When the looping is 
finished pass the threads of raffia through the frame 
and tie with a knot which should be concealed under the 
looping. The frame may be hung by a loop of raffia 
or a small brass ring may be covered like the cardboard 
frame and fastened to the top. (Fig. 21.) 



SECOND YEAR 



SECOND YEAR 

KNOTTING 

Sailor Knot 

Materials: 

V2 yd- of flat corset lace or ribbon. 
A small card. 

Place the card, which represents the collar, on the 
desk; pass the ribbon around the card leaving the end 
at the right longer than at the left. Pass the right end 
over and under the left end (Fig. 23a). Pass 1 over 2 
again (Fig. 23b), then under 3 (Fig. 23c), and down 
through the loop 4 (Fig. 23d) . 

Bow Knot 
Material: 

1/2 yd. of cable cord. 

About five inches from one end make a loop without 
crossing the cords. Hold this loop in the left hand with 
first finger and thumb. With the right hand take the 
long end, pass it around the loop from right to left, 
making a small ring. Pull the cord through the ring 
with the left hand forming a second loop. (Fig. 22a.) 
Pull the loops with both hands, forming a tight knot. 
(Fig. 22b.) 

40 




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42 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

The shoe-string knot may be developed from the 
preceding lesson. Make the first loop as for the bow- 
knot, then pass the long end of cord twice around this 
loop instead of once. ( Fig. 22c. ) Pull the second loop 
through both rings and tighten. (Fig. 22d.) 

This is an excellent fastening for a shoe-string as 
it will not readily loosen. 

Flat or Reef Knot 
Materials: 

2 pieces of cord, % yd. each in length, one red 
and the other white. ,■ 

Hold the white cord in the right hand, the red in the 
left, 2 in. from the end. Cross the white over and 
under the red (Fig. 24a). Cross back again over and 
under the red (Fig. 24b) . Tighten the knot by pulling 
the cords on both sides. 

This knot is used whenever a strong flat joining is 
required. 

Fisherman's Knot 
Material: 

2 pieces of seine cord, each 10 in. long, one red, 
the other white. 

Place the two cords horizontally on desk, lapping five 
inches. Tie the end of the red cord round the white cord 
five inches from end with single knot. Tie end of white 
cord round the red cord five inches from end with single 




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SECOND YEAR 45 

knot. Pull the cords and the knots will run together, 
making a secure joining. This is sometimes called the 
kite-string knot. (Fig. 25.) 

Bowline Knot 
Material: 

l/o yd. of seine cord. 

Make a small ring in center of cord, holding it in 
left hand (Fig. 26a). Pass the end of lower cord 
through the loop from underneath, leaving a large loop 
(Fig. 26b), then under the upper cord and down 
through the ring (Fig. 26c). Hold the short end and 
loop in one hand and poll the long end to tighten the 
knot. A weight may be placed in this loop, the knot 
becoming more secure as the strain increases. 

Fig. 27 illustrates the running bowline knot. 

Weaver's Knot 
Materials: 

2 pieces of cord l/> yd. each, one red and the 
other white. 

Hold the red cord in the right hand, the white cord 
in the left hand about two inches from the ends. Cross 
the red under the white, holding both cords firmly be- 
tween the thumb and first finger of the left hand. Form 
a ring by taking the long end of the red cord with the 
right hand, passing it under the thumb, also the short 



46 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

red cord, holding it in place between first finger and 
thumb of left hand. (Fig. 28a.) Pass the short white 
end over the thumb and through the loop (Fig. 28b). 
Tighten by pulling both white cords with the left hand 
and the red cords with the right hand. Unless the knot 
be pulled in place as directed it will slip. 

This knot is used by weavers on account of its 
strength and because a broken end of thread however 
short can be securely joined to a new one. 

Square Knot 

Material: 

2 pieces of cable cord, one red and the other 
white. 

Place the red cord vertically on the desk and the 
white cord horizontally on top crossing at the centre. 
Number the four ends as in Fig. 29a. Place 1 over 2, 
leaving one-half inch loop at top. Place 2 over 1 and 3. 
Place 3 over 2 and 4 (Fig. 29b). Place 4 over 3 and 
down through loop at the top (Fig. 29c). Draw in 
place by pulling the lower cords with first finger and 
thumb of each hand, the upper cords between the middle 
and fourth fingers (Fig. 29d) . 

Repeat this exercise, commencing always with the 
same color. 

A very pretty cord may be made for a sofa pillow, 
or the exercise may be used in making a watch-fob, 
using flat laces instead of cord. 




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SECOND YEAR 51 

In making a chain, a loop on which to fasten any 
article desired, may be tied in one of the cords before 
beginning the exercise. 

Military Knot 
Material: 

1 yd. of cable cord. 

Double the cord and fasten the centre to the desk. 
With the right cord make a ring over the left (Fig. 
30a). The left cord is woven in and out this ring; 
over 1, under 2, over 3, under 4, and over 5, as shown in 
Fig. 30b. Hold the loop above the knot with the first 
finger of each hand drawing the knot in place by pulling 
the cords with thumbs and middle fingers. 

To facilitate the teaching of this knot it is helpful 
to refer to a blackboard diagram where the different 
points are numbered. After the knot has been made on 
the desk the children should be able to repeat the exer- 
cise, holding the cord in their hands. 

A simple application of this exercise is a decoration 
or fastening for a garment. This may be mounted on 
cardboard as follows: Punch two holes in a card one 
inch apart. Make the military knot and pass each end 
of the cord through a hole. Fasten by tying twice on 
the wrong side. A button may be made of two square 
knots and fastened to the card by passing the ends 
through a third hole opposite the military knot (Fig. 
30c). 



52 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Bannister Bar 

Materials: 

2 pieces of cable cord 1 yd. each in length, one 
bine and the other white. 

Join the two cords by turning down one-third of 
the bine cord making a loop; at the same place on the 
white cord make another loop, slip the white loop over 
the blue one (Fig. 31a) . Draw the white ends through 
the blue loop. 

Fasten this knot in the desk so that the two short 
cords are in the center forming a foundation. The long 
white cord should be on the right and the long blue cord 
on the left. Place the blue cord over the short ends, 
forming a loop which resembles the numeral 4 (Fig. 
31b) . Pass the long white cord over the blue end, under 
the foundation and through the loop from underneath 
(Fig. 31c). Repeat the exercise, always making the 
loop with the left cord. The bannister bar leads directly 
to the Solomon's knot, the only difference being that the 
loop is made alternately with right and left cords over 
the foundations (Fig. 31d). 

The cords for these exercises may be fastened to a 
nine-inch piece of cardboard. The short, or foundation 
cords, are held in place firmly by being attached to the 
lower part of the card. 



SECOND YEAR 55 

Bag Made of Solomon's Knots 

Materials: 

2 pieces of cable cord !/o yd. each. 
16 pieces of cable cord 1% yds. each. 
Cardboard 6x9 in. 

Place the card vertically on the desk, tie the two 
short cords around the card one inch down from the 
top, having the knots on opposite sides. Loop eight 
cords on each side as for the shopping bag. One inch 
down from the top make a row of Solomon's knots, 
using groups of four cords. In the second row of knots 
the two cords which were used for the foundation in the 
first row, are now used for tying. The cords formerly 
used for tying now form the foundation. Make these 
knots one inch below, and between the upper knots. 

When six or seven rows of knots have been made 
draw the work down so that the last row is even with 
the lower edge of the card. Finish by making one row 
of knots across the bottom, using two cords on the under 
side for tying and two on the upper side as a foundation. 
Cut the ends one inch below the last row of knots and 
ravel the cords for a fringe (Fig. 31e) . This bag may 
be made from strands of raffia instead of cord. 

A very pretty picture frame may be made with Solo- 
mon's knots, using two colors of raffia and tying the 
knot over a circular cardboard foundation. One side of 
the frame will be of one color and the other side of 
another color. 



56 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Hammock 

Materials: 

10 pieces of macreme or seine cord l 1 /) yds. each. 
2 pieces of macreme or seine cord % yd. each for 

binders. 
2 1-inch brass rings. 

Pass one of the long cords through the ring ; double 
it. About three inches from the ring make a single knot 
as described in exercise for the first year; tie the re- 
maining cords through the ring in the same manner. 
Make eight rows of knots one inch apart. Be careful to 
keep the mesh even. Remove the hammock from the 
hook. Near the brass ring hold all the cords together; 
double over four inches of the binding cord; place the 
doubled end or loop parallel to the other cords toward 
the hammock. Beginning at the ring wind the long end 
of the binding cord ten or a dozen times around all the 
cords allowing the short end to project a little near the 
ring ; slip the end of the binding cord through the loop, 
pull up the projecting end of the short piece near ring, 
the long end and the loop will then slip under the bind- 
ing. Both ends may now be cut off. Avoid drawing 
the binding too tight or the end will not pull in place 
beneath the binder. The other end of the hammock is 
finished by passing all the cords through the second 
brass ring and binding in the same manner (Fig. 32). 




0-.S3. 



SECOND YEAR 59 

Round Box 
Materials: 

2 circles of cardboard, 4 in. in diameter. 
Cardboard for side 14x1%. 
Natural colored raffia. 
Tapestry needle. 

In the center of the circles cut out a round hole three- 
quarters of an inch in diameter. Split the strands of 
raffia and cover the circles with loop stitches, the loops 
on the outer edge. One of the circles makes the bottom 
of the box and the other the cover. Fit the strip of 
cardboard to the bottom and lap the ends. Make a 
small slit on both edges where the cardboard laps and 
tie it with a thin piece of raffia. Cover this ring with 
loop stitches, and sew to the circle intended for the bot- 
tom. Sew with raffia through the loops on side and 
bottom alternately. Join the cover to the top with a few 
firm stitches and make a bow of raffia for the center 
(Fig. 33). 



()() THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Square Box 
Materials: 

2 pieces of cardboard 3x4 in. 
Cardboard for side 16xl!/2 in. 
Natural colored raffia. 
Tapestry needle. 

Cover the oblong cardboards for top and bottom of 
box, the short way of the card, by wrapping the raffia 
around the card without looping. The raffia should be 
carefully smoothed out like a ribbon and not split. Lap 
only the edges of the raffia, keeping the work flat. To 
finish, thread a needle with the raffia and pass the end 
well up under the wrapping. 

Cover the cardboard strip for the sides with loop 
stitches, except one inch at each end. Measure the 
length of the sides on the strip and bend to form the 
corners. Lap the ends and cover with loop stitches. 
Sew the looped edges of the side to the long edges of the 
bottom of the box, taking a stitch through a loop on the 
side and through a strand of raffia on the bottom. The 
short side will stay in position without sewing. Join the 
cover at the long side in two places with several stitches 
(Fig. 34). 




l^iG-. 3<4- 




T'G-. <3£~. 



SECOND YEAR 63 

Round Box (With Sides of Flat Reed) 

Materials: 

4-inch circle of cardboard for bottom. 
414-inch circle of cardboard for cover. 
5 pieces of flat reed % in. wide, 14 in. long. 
Natural colored raffia. 
Tapestry needle. 

Cut a round hole three-quarters of an inch in di- 
ameter in center of cardboard circle for bottom, and 
cover with loop stitches. The raffia should be split or 
the center will be too thick. Fit a piece of flat reed 
around the bottom, notch the lapped ends and tie with 
raffia. Cover with double loop stitches. Join the raffia 
by lapping the old and the new ends and looping over 
them. Cover four of these reed rings, and sew together 
to form the sides of the box, then sew to the bottom. 
Wrap the other piece of cardboard for the cover and sew 
a ring of reed covered with looped raffia around it for a 
rim. 

Larger boxes are attractive but are more difficult to 
make, as it requires considerable skill to cover neatly a 
larger circle ( Fig. 35 ) . 



64 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Woven Bag 
Materials: 

Cardboard .3x5 in. 

3 flat corset laces, one white and two green. 
2 lengths of laces for handle l/o yd. each, green 
and white. 

Tie the white lace around the short end of the card 
about three inches from the top. Wind the lace around 
the card ten times, using a loop stitch at one edge to hold 
the lace in place. At the lower edge of the card pass the 
lace to the opposite side and finish by looping up to the 
top. Fasten with a knot to the upper string. 

Near the first loop stitch at the top tie a green lace. 
Using the metal end of the lace as a needle, weave over 
and under to the lower edge of the card. Turn the card 
and weave in the same way up to the top. Weave back 
and forth until the strings are all covered. Fasten the 
lace to the top string and cut off. Make a handle of 
see-saw knots and fasten to bag (Fig. 36) . 



Book-Mark No. 1 
Materials: 

1 6-inch splint, natural color. 
3 3-inch splints, natural color. 
1 strand of green raffia. 

Lay two short splints in the form of the letter X on 
the desk, place over these the long splint in a vertical 



SECOND YEAR 67 

position and the third small one horizontally across. Hold 
them in the center with the left hand, and at the same 
time the end of a strand of raffia, back of the splints. 
Number the splints as in the diagram (Fig. 36a). 
Weave the raffia over 1, under 2, over 3, under 4, over 5, 
under 6, over 7, under 8. Press the weaver, or piece of 
raffia, towards the center each time. Having an even 
number of spokes it is necessary to weave from number 
1, first to the right and then to the left, each time going 
around number 1 ( Fig. 36b ) . Finish by tying the raffia 
to the first end, back of the splints. 



Book-Mark No. 2 

Materials: 

1 6-inch splint, yellow. 

3 3-inch splints, yellow. 

Several strands of raffia, brown and orange. 

Arrange the splints as in Fig. 36a. With a piece of 
raffia weave over and under the spokes commencing 
with number 1. When once around, tie close together 
and trim near the knot. This is done to hold the spokes. 

Tie the small ends of the brown and orange raffia 
together with a flat knot. Place the raffia around num- 
ber 1 (Fig. 37) the brown on top, the orange under. 
Twist the strands and twine around 2, the orange on top, 
the brown under. Twist again and weave around 3, the 
brown on top, the orange under. When completed the 



68 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

spokes will be covered alternately with brown and 
orange. This is called in basketry, twining or pairing, 
and is one method of weaving with an even number of 
spokes. Continue the weaving in the same direction to 
the end and fasten by tying the two pieces under a 
spoke, cutting the ends close (Fig. 37) . 



Mat of Circular Weaving 

Materials: 

1 6-inch circle of cardboard. 
Natural and colored raffia. 
Tapestry needle. 

One-half inch from edge of circle draw an inner 
circle, and one diameter. Make an uneven number of 
dots on the inner line about one-half inch apart, having 
one at each end of the diameter. Perforate these dots 
with a sharp pointed nail or large needle. One circle 
properly perforated may be used as a guide in marking 
the dots on another circle. 

Thread the needle with a strand of natural colored 
raffia, having a knot at the end. Insert the needle from 
underneath through dot 1 (Fig. 38a), down through 2, 
which is directly opposite (this covers the diameter of 
the circle), up through 3, down through 4, and up 
through 5. When necessary to join the raffia, tie the 
two pieces together with a flat or weaver's knot on the 
under side between two holes. When the raffia is 



7 





SECOND YEAR 71 

threaded through the last hole, which is the odd one, 
fasten at the center through the raffia with a single loop 
stitch. 

Weave by working over and under each strand. 
When once around draw the weaver tight to form an 
exact center and tie. Continue weaving for a distance 
of one-half inch from the center, when a new color may 
be added. To join a new strand of raffia commence two 
inches back, covering and lapping the old end. Weave 
to the edge of the circle. A pleasing effect is given by 
using harmonious colors alternately. Remove the mat 
by breaking the cardboard at the edge of the circle. If 
any ends of the joined weavers show, draw them 
through the upper side and cut close. The under side 
next to the cardboard shows the smoother finish. To 
secure the best results the card should be threaded with 
wide strands of raffia and the weaving put in loosely 
with split raffia. 

Another method of preparing a card for circular 
weaving is as follows: Make the perforations and sew 
a half -inch brass ring in the center with four strong 
stitches an even distance apart. Tie the small end of a 
strand of raffia to the ring and pass down through 1, up 
through 2, and under the ring; down through 3, up 
through 4 and under the ring (Fig. 38b) . 

A pretty handbag or pocket may be made by string- 
ing a second card, using only two-thirds of the circle, 



12 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

having a ring for the center. Weave backward and for- 
ward on these strings to the edge of the circle. Sew the 
edge of this to a circular mat. Finish with a knotted 
raffia handle (Fig. 38c). 

A whisk-broom holder may be made by joining two 
circular mats at the sides and finishing with a see-saw 
chain of raffia for a handle. 



THIRD YEAR 



THIRD YEAR 

WEAVING AND BASKETRY 

Braiding 
Materials: 

3 pieces of cable cord, red, brown and white, 15 

in., 18 in., 21 in. long. 
3 shorter pieces to teach joining. 

Tie the long cords together and fasten the knot in 
desk. Arrange the colors in uniform order, white on 
the right, red on the left, and brown in the center. Com- 
mencing at the top, place the white cord over the brown, 
red over the white and the brown over the red. Con- 
tinue this process. ( Fig. 39a. ) 

To lengthen the braid, lap a new piece of cord over 
the end of the shortest cord and braid ; then place a new 
piece on the next short one, braiding it in and joining 
the third in the same way. If preferred, three strands 
of the same color may be used designating them as 
right, left and middle cords. 

Call the attention of the children to the fact that 
braiding is simple over and under weaving with which 
they have been familiar in previous exercises. Instruc- 
tions for braiding a greater number of strands may be 
developed from this braid of three. The same principle 

T8 





~F / G- . &<? CL. "F-f O: *3£ , I/. 



THIRD YEAR 81 

of over and under weaving is observed; first from the 
right side and then from the left, the cords meeting or 
crossing in the center. 

In the four strand braid, weave over one from the 
right, under one from the left, and cross in the center. 
Repeating this weave produces an even braid. Six, 
eight or ten strands may be woven in the same way. 
Should the number of strands be uneven commence with 
the over weave from both sides. (Fig. 39b.) 



82 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Braided Mat 
Materials: 

Raffia. 
Tapestry needle. 

Tie the thick ends together of a dozen strands of 
raffia and fasten to desk. Make an even braid, adding 
new strands when necessary. Three yards of braid will 
be sufficient to make the mat. Thread the needle with a 
thin strand of raffia. Tie the small end around the braid 
near the top, and trim off above the knot. Form the 
braid into a small circle, keeping the end underneath, 
and sew back and forth four times. Continue to coil the 
braid and sew, taking a stitch through the outer edge of 
the coil to the inner edge of the next braid, the needle 
passing through two braids, which should be kept per- 
fectly flat. (Fig. 40.) The next stitch is taken by 
reversing the direction of the needle, working from the 
inner to the outer edge through two braids. The stitches 
should slant slightly and should not be taken far apart. 

Another method of sewing braid together for a mat 
is as follows : Coil the braid, the flat sides touching, and 
sew together. The top of the mat is now formed by the 
edges of the braid. A border may be made by looping 
the braid around the edges in scallops, securing it with a 
stitch where it touches the outer edge of the mat. Twice 
the length of the braid will be required to make a mat 
of this style. 




7v G-.4-2.. 



THIRD YEAR 85 

Braided Raffia Basket 
Materials: 

Natural or colored raffia. 
Tapestry needle. 

Make a braid of raffia about three-quarters of an 
inch wide; coil and sew together as in making a mat, 
keeping the braid flat for the bottom of the basket, 
which is two and one-half inches in diameter. Shape 
the sides by holding the braid upward and outward while 
sewing. Three or four rows complete this basket, which 
should measure about five inches across the top, and re- 
semble a fig basket in shape. (Fig. 41.) 



Braided Raffia Hat 
Materials : 

Natural and colored raffia. 
Tapestry needle. 

Make an even braid three-eighths of an inch wide; 
coil and sew with the edges together. When the top 
measures three inches across begin to shape the sides 
of the crown. For this the braid must now be held down 
and a trifle in and drawn tight while sewing. Three or 
four rows will make the crown sufficiently high. Five 
or six rows sewed together like the top of the crown 
makes the flat brim. Finish at the back by tapering the 
end, secure it under a braid and sew firmly in place. 
Trim the hat with colored raffia. (Fig. 42.) 



86 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Flat Reed Basket 

Materials: 

12 pieces of flat reed *4 m - wide, 12 in. long. 

4-inch square of cardboard. 

Green raffia. 

Tapestry needle and coarse linen thread. 

Draw a three-inch square on cardboard, place dots 
one-half inch apart on two opposite sides and perforate. 
Witli a needle and thread make six stitches on the two 
sides, commencing in the corner and sewing through 
perforations. The thread should be doubled and the 
stitches not drawn too tight. Fasten on the back with 
two loop stitches. Pass six pieces of reed singly under 
both sets of stitches, allowing an even length to extend 
on two sides of the square. Weave six pieces of reed 
across this set, making the ends on both sides even. 
This forms the bottom of the basket. (Fig. 43a) . 

Bend the pieces of reed upward to form the sides. 
Make a braid of green raffia three-eighths inch wide 
and use as a weaver, starting under a reed in the center 
of one side and weaving once around. As the number 
of spokes is even it will be necessary at the beginning of 
each row to pass over two instead of one. Weave about 
five or six rows, rounding out the sides until the top of 
the basket measures five inches across. Leave about one- 
half yard of the braid for the handle. Bend down one 
reed over the last row of braid and place it inside the 



THIRD YEAR 89 

second row. Turn down alternate reeds around the 
basket and cut off the spokes between even with the top. 
Take an extra twelve-inch reed, sharpen the ends and 
insert it at each side under the braid where the weaving 
ended. The half yard of braid left from the weaving 
may be twisted around the handle and secured firmly to 
the opposite side with several stitches. (Fig. 43b.) 

Reed Mat 

Materials : 

8 spokes of reed, No. 3, 12 in. long. 

1 spoke of reed, No. 3, 7 in. long. 

2 weavers of reed, No. 1. 
1 strand of colored raffia. 

Make two groups of four spokes each. Lay one set 
over the other, crossing at the center, and place the 
short spoke with the upper group, even at one end. 
Hold the two groups firmly in left hand, and an end of 
the raffia. Weave the strand of raffia over the upper 
set, under the lower set, over the third and under the 
fourth. Repeat once around. This binds the two sets 
together. (Fig. 44a.) While damp separate the spokes 
into groups of two, weave over and under twice around 
with the raffia, using the odd spoke as if it were a pair, 
and press the weaver toward the center. ( Fig. 44b. ) 



90 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Separate the individual spokes an even distance 
apart, continue weaving over one and under one with the 
raffia until the end of the strand is reached. (Fig. 44c.) 
Take the number 1 weaver, which has been made pliable 
by soaking, allow the end to extend back of one spoke 
about an inch, and weave over and under as before until 
the mat measures four inches across. When weaving 
avoid bending the spokes. Use the fore-finger to press 
the weaver toward the center, being careful to avoid a 
space between the rows. 

When a new weaver is necessary join as follows: 
Pass the end of the first weaver under a spoke, hold the 
end of a new weaver under the same spoke and continue 
weaving. This method of joining does not show on the 
right side, and the next row of weaving makes it per- 
fectly secure. 

When the mat is four inches across, finish by press- 
ing the end of weaver down between the last two rows 
on the wrong side, allowing one-half inch to extend 
under a spoke. Trim all the spokes an equal length — 
four inches is required to make the open border. Point 
the ends of the spokes. The simplest border is made 
as follows : Select a spoke and call it No. 1 ; bend over 
No. 2 and insert down beside No. 3. Bend No. 2 over 
No. 3 and insert down beside No. 4. Continue this 
method all around the mat, making the curves uniform. 
(Fig. 44d.) 




7-/<?.«f 4^ 



THIRD YEAR 95 

Round Reed Basket 
Materials : 

8 spokes of No. 4 reed, 18 in. long. 

1 spoke of No. 4 reed, 10 in. long. 

6 weavers of No. 1 reed. 

1 strand of raffia. 

Soak the reed for twenty minutes. 

Make a mat as in the preceding lesson, measuring 
about four inches across, for the bottom of the basket. 
Turn the spokes upward one by one, bending gradually 
so as not to break them. The final shape of the basket 
depends on these spokes being well shaped before weav- 
ing the sides. Keep the spokes as nearly perpendicular 
as possible, holding the bottom toward the worker, the 
spokes pointing outward. Weave with No. 1 reed, 
working toward the right and keep the spokes an even 
distance apart until a height of two and one-half inches 
is attained. 

A simple and effective finish is as follows: Trim 
all the spokes three inches from the top, pointing them. 
Select a spoke for No. 1, pass over No. 2, under 
No. 3, and insert down beside No. 4. Pass No. 2 over 
No. 3, under No. 4 and insert down beside No. 5. 
Press the spokes close to the top of the basket. (Fig. 
45.) 



96 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

A cover to fit this basket is made like a reed mat the 
size of the top. Instead of the open border described in 
the mat lesson, make a closed border. Work from right 
to left. Press each spoke over one and under one, close 
to the last row of weaving. When dry trim the ends 
of the spokes so that each end is behind a spoke of the 
basket. If the reed should break in making the border, 
trim close to the basket and insert a new spoke an inch 
deep in the weaving. 

A ring attached to the center of the cover adds to its 
finish. Take twelve inches of No. 1 reed, make a coil in 
the center about one inch in diameter. Coil it twice 
around then insert the two ends through to the under 
side of the cover, and tie securely. Cut off the ends. 

This basket may be made with a handle by cutting 
the odd spoke 20 in. long instead of 10 in. When mak- 
ing the border insert an odd spoke by the side of the 20 
in. length of reed. Cross over the extra length to the 
opposite side of the basket and insert in the weaving for 
two inches. A No. 1 weaver is then rolled around the 
handle in the following manner: Insert one end in the 
weaving about 1 in. below the top and wind around the 
handle at a distance of 1% in. to the opposite side. In- 
sert from within to outside of basket and return, wind- 
ing beside the first coil to the beginning. Repeat until 
the handle is covered, and secure the end in the weaving. 

When the basket is finished, wet it again thoroughly 



THIRD YEAR 97 

and press in the center of the bottom. This makes a 
firmer base. 

Colored reed makes attractive baskets but it is diffi- 
cult to procure. Many teachers of basketry dye their 
own materials and take pleasure in producing beautiful 
colors. 

Reed baskets may also be colored entirely, or in part, 
by painting them with a dye which comes for this 
purpose. 



98 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Indian Basket 
Materials: 

5 yds. of twine 14 in. thick. 
Raffia, red and natural colored. 
Tapestry needle, No. 21. 

Wind the cord in a ball. Ravel the end and taper 
by cutting out one or more strands. Thread the needle 
with thin raffia. Place the small end of the raffia on end 
of cord, lapping one inch; beginning at the end, wind 
over both for a distance of one and one-half inches, 
keeping the raffia flat and smooth. (Fig. 46a.) Coil 
this bound end into a circle, making the hole in the cen- 
ter as small as possible, and bind where the cords lap by 
taking four over and over stitches through the center. 

The cord is then coiled and eacli row sewed to the 
coil below as follows: Hold the work in the left hand, 
wind the raffia twice around the cord from you, then 
pointing the needle toward the worker take a stitch 
through the center; wind twice around the cord and 
again through the center until the circle is completed. 
The second row is sewed to the coil below, not through 
the center. ( Fig. 46b. ) Note that the foundation cord 
must be well covered and that the number of stitches will 
increase as the circle widens. When the center which is 
the bottom of the basket is five inches wide, begin to 
shape the basket by holding the cord directly above the 



^B3?mmm 






F"/e-.<4-j. 



THIRD YEAR 101 

last row and sew as before. In order to have the basket 
even, begin to shape upward exactly opposite to the 
point where the first row began. Continue sewing the 
coils one above the other until the sides are two inches 
high, and finish off directly above the point where the 
shaping began by thinning out the end of the cord, sew- 
ing over and over and hiding the end in the coil below. 

To join a new strand wind the old end around the 
cord, then wind the small end of the new strand around 
the same place and close up to the last stitch, then sew 
as before. If done neatly the join is not noticeable. 
Be careful not to twist the raffia while sewing. Use the 
needle only for the stitch, allowing the strand to hang 
while wrapping smoothly over the cord. Fig. 47 shows 
a completed basket. 

The use of color and design are interesting and not 
difficult even for young children. A piece of colored 
raffia may be joined in any place and one or more rows 
will form a band of color. This is the simplest design 
and calls for no additional instruction. To form blocks 
of color on the sides of a basket proceed as follows: 
Join a colored strand and sew for a space of one inch; 
hold the rest of the colored strand on the foundation 
cord and join a piece of bleached raffia close up to the 
color and sew for the space of one inch; change again, 
using the colored strand for sewing, and keep the 
bleached raffia on the foundation cord. Continue this 
spacing, and on the second and succeeding rows use the 



102 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

colors in the same spaces. This will produce a row of 
colored blocks all around the basket. If desired, and 
the height of the basket will allow it, a second row of 
blocks may be made in alternate spaces, producing a 
checker-board effect. Variations of this design will 
occur to the pupils themselves, who should be allowed 
liberty in using colors and making their own designs, 
once they understand the principle. 

In this lesson cord is used instead of reed for greater 
convenience in class room work. Reed makes a firmer 
basket but it requires soaking and is much more difficult 
for children to handle. The baskets may be started with 
cord or raffia, and when the center is about one inch in 
diameter, insert the reed. Taper both the reed and cord 
ends and lap so as to show no extra thickness. If reed 
is used for the beginning of the basket make it very 
pliable by soaking, and shave the end flat rather than 
pointed. 

A cover may be made for this basket by sewing a 
mat like the bottom about one-quarter inch larger, all 
around. Make a rim perpendicular to the top about 
five-eighths inch in depth, tapering the end carefully 
when completing the basket. 

Coiled Basket 
Materials: 

Raffia, green and natural colored. 
Tapestry needle No. 21. 




^z o- 4-8 



a. 




7^6-4-8 I. 



THIRD YEAR 105 

Make a foundation coil about one-half inch in 
diameter using natural colored raffia. Thread the needle 
with a strand of colored raffia and tie the small end of 
the strand around the foundation coil one-half inch 
from the coarse end. Wind the raffia not too close to- 
gether, around the coil ten times. Twist the foundation 
coil in a small circle, keeping the end underneath, and 
fasten securely by taking a stitch through the coil under 
the first twist of colored raffia. (Fig. 48a.) Spread the 
ten colored stitches an even distance apart; coil the 
raffia and sew each row to the row underneath with the 
same number of stitches, which will become farther 
apart as the size of the mat increases. 

To make the stitch, point the needle in a slanting 
direction through the center of the coil, under the stitch 
below, the needle being inserted underneath in front of 
the colored stitch and brought out beyond on the right 
side. The stitches in each row connect with those of the 
previous row and radiate from the center. Avoid twist- 
ing the foundation coil while sewing. When the spaces 
between the stitches becomes too great (one inch should 
be the longest space) , an extra stitch may be inserted 
beside every second one, or wherever they are needed. 

Make the bottom of the basket about three inches 
across. To make a bowl-shaped basket place the coil 
above and a little outside the last row while sewing, until 
the basket measures six inches across the top. The last 
row should be sewed directlv above the one underneath. 



106 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Taper the foundation coil of raffia at the end in order to 
procure a neat finish, sewing it down gradually to a 
point. The foundation coil must he kept the same thick- 
ness throughout by inserting new strands in the center 
of the coil, so that the coarser ends do not show on the 
outside of the basket. When necessary to join the col- 
ored raffia for sewing, tie the two ends with a flat knot 
which may be hidden in the coil. (Fig. 48b.) 

Rug Weaving 

Previous to the practical lesson in weaving illustrate 
the manner in which cloth is woven by ravelling a piece 
of coarse material, such as burlap or canvas. The inter- 
est of the pupils will be aroused by telling them that the 
spider's web, the bird's nest and the sheath of a bud are 
samples of nature's weaving. Teach them also that the 
needs of people led to primitive weaving. Speak of the 
development of the loom. A story of Indian life makes 
an attractive introduction to a lesson in weaving. 

By means of miniature loom, lead the pupils to ob- 
serve that the warp strings are fastened to the warp 
beam, that the material already woven is rolled on the 
cloth beam, that the heddle lifts alternate threads, mak- 
ing a shed for the shuttle to pass through ; the selvedge 
is made by the passing of woof threads over and under 
the end warp threads. 

Oral and written language lessons on cotton, linen, 
silk and wool are closely related to the instruction in 



THIRD YEAR 109 

weaving and may be simple or advanced according to 
grade. 

Materials : 

Heavy cardboard 6x9 in. 
3% yds. cotton warp thread. 
Rug yarn, green and tan. 
A tape needle. 

Make a loom from the cardboard by punching a row 
of holes three-quarters inch down from the top and the 
same distance up from the lower edge. These holes 
should be three-eighths inch apart and directly opposite 
each other. 

Tie a knot about three inches from the end of the 
warp string. ( This will be needed to secure the weaving 
when the rug is taken off the card.) 

Thread the warp up through No. 1, down through 
No. 2, up through No. 3 and down through No. 4. (Fig. 
49a.) Continue across to the other side threading all 
the holes. Allow at least three inches, fastening on the 
back of the loom to the short cord between the holes. 
These are the warp strings and must be drawn quite 
tight. 

For the woof, cut the rug yarn in two yard lengths. 
Commence weaving at the top of the card at the middle 
warp string. Weave over one and under one to the 
right side and then to the left. The selvedge or finished 
edge is formed by the woof thread passing alternately 
over and under the end warp threads. 



110 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

The woof threads should describe a curve in working 
across the loom. (Fig. 49b.) This method gives added 
fullness to the woof, prevents straining the warp threads 
and will enable the weaver to keep the selvedge straight. 

The weaving is done with the fingers. When work- 
ing toward the left lift the warp string under which the 
weaver passes with the left hand, weaving with the right. 
When working from left to right, lift the strings with 
the right hand and weave with the left. When it is 
necessary to join the woof thread, lap the weavers for 
the space of an inch, allowing the short ends to extend 
on top, this being the wrong side. These ends should be 
trimmed off when the rug is taken from the loom. 

As soon as the children know how to weave evenly, 
encourage the making of design. A border of another 
color is a simple form of decoration. The width of the 
border should be in proportion to the size of the rug. 
An attractive border for a green rug may be made by 
weaving two lines of tan, four lines of green, and again 
two lines of tan. 

To form a center of another color use the following 
method: Weave a square piece in the centre on eight 
warp strings, using a contrasting color of rug yarn. 
(Fig. 49b.) With the foundation color weave down as 
far as the center color and continue down one side on 
five warp strings, that is, four which were left unwoven 
and the one woven with the contrasting color. (Fig. 
49c.) 




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THIRD YEAR 113 

Notice that the warp strings at the side of the design 
are used twice, once with the foundation color, and again 
with the color of the design. Thread the tape needle 
with the yarn to pass the woof thread through these 
loops. The other side is filled in with the foundation 
color in the same way. When both sides are even with 
center, the remainder of the rug may be woven with the 
foundation color. 

When the children understand interweaving this 
simple design in the body of the rug more difficult pat- 
terns may be attempted. It is necessary to break the 
cardboard at the holes to remove the rug. The three- 
inch piece of warp thread left at the beginning and at 
the end, must be woven over the end row and up into the 
body of the rug. The woof thread should be pushed 
sufficiently close in the weaving to form a material of 
firm texture when taken from the loom. 

Any wooden frame may be made into a loom by driv- 
ing pegs around which to wind the warp threads. The 
first two and the last two warp threads may be doubled, 
thus insuring a firm selvedge. The warp strings should 
be drawn tight enough to spring under the hand. 

Fringe for the rug may be made by winding rug 
yarn around the six-inch card, cutting the yarn at both 
edges. Pass one of these small pieces through the edge 
of the rug, double and tie a single knot close to the rug. 
Follow this method at each end. 

Another way of tying fringe in a rug is to double 



114 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

each strand, looping the doubled piece through the edge 
of the rug. 

A communal rug may be made by joining sixteen 
rugs, size 6x9 inches. These rugs must be of uniform 
size. A simple design is suggested in Fig. 49d. This 
design requires eight rugs with borders which, joined 
together, will form the border of a large one, four with 
diamond-shaped figures to form the center and four 
plain rugs. Sew the rugs together on the wrong side 
with overhanding stitches, using cotton warp of the 
same color. 

Satisfactory rugs are also made by using rug yarn 
for warp as well as woof. The warp threads may be 
one-half inch apart, and will be covered by the woof 
which must be pressed close together. 

A different effect is obtained by placing the warp 
strings closer together. When the material is woven, 
the interlacing of warp and woof is plainly seen. 

Rag weaving gives as much opportunity for design 
as the use of rug yarn. The material may be old or new. 
Cut or tear into three-quarter inch strips, join the ends 
by lapping one inch and sewing them together. If there 
is time and opportunity, dyeing may profitably form 
part of the preparatory work, adding much to the inter- 
est of the lesson and tending toward individuality in 
results. 

Use attractive colors for warp. Red warp one- 
quarter inch apart woven with white rags will give the 



— — — — I I 

EKE 



^i- ^P d. 



THIRD YEAR 117 

effect of pink. Blue warp and white filling make an 
attractive looking bath mat. 

In the use of colored yarns, teach the children to 
have one predominant color, the other colors serving to 
emphasize the first. Make the border the strongest part 
of the color scheme, in harmonious contrast with the 
rest of the rug. 

Dashes of color may be made at intervals of any 
length by weaving two rows together wherever desired. 
One row will not give the effect of a line. A white rug 
with green border, and dashes of green here and there 
in the body of the rug is a simple and attractive model. 
Woven squares may be made for wash cloths, using 
Dexter's knitting cotton No. 8. 

Raffia also lends itself to this work. Use wide pieces 
for the warp and place one-quarter inch apart. Striped 
effects are secured by using different colored woofs at 
intervals. Plaid effects are obtained in the following 
way: Use green and white raffia for warp in alternate 
groups of three strands; weave with green and white 
raffia for equal distances to correspond with the space 
taken up by the three warp strands. 



118 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

Chaie Caning 
The first model is made on cardboard using raffia. 
Materials: 

Cardboard 8x10 in. 
Raffia, red. 
Tapestry needle. 

Mark the top of the cardboard to distinguish it from 
the other sides; draw a five and one-half inch square in 
the center; place dots on four sides one-half inch apart 
and perforate these dots. This makes a substitute for 
the chair seat. 

Thread the needle with raffia, bring the raffia up 
through No. 1 as in Fig. 50. Draw through 2, up 
through 3, down through 4, and continue until twenty is 
reached. Bring the needle up through A, down through 
B, and up through C. Continue crossing until T is 
reached. Bring the needle up through 19 and make a 
second set of verticals. Use the same holes as for the 
first set until the needle is put through No. 2. Bring the 
needle up through S. 

The fourth row must be woven directly under the first 
horizontal and under and over each vertical. Notice in 
the diagram (Fig. 50a) that the fourth row is always 
under the first horizontal and that it is woven under the 
first vertical and over the second. This relation must be 
maintained throughout or the fifth and sixth rows can- 
not be woven in correctly. In the diagram, the third 
and fourth rows are shaded to illustrate this point. 



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THIRD YEAR 121 

When new raffia is needed, tie it with a flat knot 
on the wrong side between the holes to the old piece. 
Use wide strands. They may be kept flat or twisted 
slightly. 

Diagonals. Bring the needle up through the corner 
U and weave over the verticals and under the horizon- 
tals diagonally across to V (Fig. 50a). Bring the 
needle up through T and continue weaving; passing 
over verticals and under horizontals until one-half is 
completed. Finish the other half by starting again in 
the corner U and weaving to V; up through 19, across 
to D, continuing until completed. 

The sixth row is begun at W and is the reverse of the 
fifth row ; weave over the horizontals and under the ver- 
ticals, across to X and finish one-half. Begin again at 
W, weave to X and continue weaving until the set is 
finished. 

The principle underlying the directions for weaving 
the fifth and sixth rows is that these strands must fit in 
between the verticals and horizontals, thus giving a 
spring to the seat. If the process is reversed they will 
cut against the verticals and horizontals and wear out 
rapidly. If this principle is understood it is not neces- 
sary to remember which is vertical or which is horizontal 
in giving the instruction. 

This lesson using the cardboard and raffia is prelim- 
inary to the cane work; binding need not be taught on 
this cardboard model but it must be included in the reg- 



122 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

ular chair caning. For this square wooden frames per- 
forated similar to the cardboard model may be bought. 

Use fine cane and dampen for twenty minutes before 
using. A piece of cane is so long that it is an advantage 
to slip it through the hole as far as the middle ; secure it 
by placing a wooden peg through the hole and use the 
half length at a time. This saves wear on the cane and 
is more convenient for the children. 

Keep the cane perfectly flat and fairly tight; join 
the cane when passing from one hole to the next by 
lapping the new piece under the old for two inches, 
using a peg to hold it temporarily. An end may be fas- 
tened on the back by wrapping it under and over the 
cane between the holes. A new piece may be started in 
the same manner. Aim to keep the back of the caning 
neat. 

Use binding cane which is about one-quarter inch 
wide to finish the edge. Place this over the holes and 
secure it by passing a piece of fine cane up through each 
hole, over the binding cane and down through the same 
hole. (Fig. 50b.) 

It will interest the more advanced pupils to allow 
them to bring chairs to be reseated. Chair seats are 
sometimes rounded at the sides and front. In caning 
these seats start at the center and work to the left. If 
the seat is rounded on the sides it will be necessary to 
skip a hole in order to keep the lines parallel. Com- 
mence at the center and fill in the other side, skipping a 




// G-. <f oL. 



THIRD YEAR 125 

corresponding hole to make both sides alike. Do not 
soak the cane for more than a few minutes. Be careful 
not to make the first four sets too tight as the cane will 
shrink a little when dry. 



INDEX 

FIRST YEAR 

Knotting and Looping 

PAGE 

Chain Stitch 20 

Corkscrew Bar 24 

Double Loop Stitch 24 

Knotting Two Cords 16 

Loop Stitch 23 

Napkin Ring 35 

Round Picture Frame 36 

See-Saw Knot 27 

Shopping Bag 31 

Single, Double and Triple Knots 12 

Single Knot Mesh 19 

Slip Knot 15 

Spiral Chain 28 

Square Picture Frame 32 

Twine Bag 28 



SECOND YEAR 

Knotting 

Bag Made of Solomon's Knots 55 

Bannister Bar 52 

Book-Mark No. 1 64 

Book-Mark No. 2 67 

127 



128 THE HANDICRAFT BOOK 

PAGE 

Bow Knot 40 

Bowline Knot 45 

Fisherman's Knot 42 

Flat or Reef Knot 42 

Hammock 56 

Mat of Circular Weaving 68 

Military Knot 51 

Round Box 59 

Round Box (with sides of flat reed) 63 

Sailor Knot 40 

Square Box 60 

Square Knot 46 

Weaver's Knot 45 

Woven Bag 64 



THIRD YEAR 

Weaving and Basketry 

Braided Mat 82 

Braided Raffia Basket 85 

Braided Raffia Hat 85 

Braiding 78 

Chair Caning 118 

Coiled Basket 102 

Flat Reed Basket 86 

Indian Basket 98 

Reed Mat 89 

Round Reed Basket 95 

Rug Weaving 106 



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